Pests of indoor plants: names, photos, and how to deal with them

Plant pests. To keep flowers in your home healthy, you need to not only care for them, but also destroy pests. We will tell you how to identify the threat and quickly eliminate it.

Bright, lush greenery on shelves or windowsills is a source of particular pride for the hostess. A beloved winter garden or a few pots of greenery equally need care and attention. Unfortunately, their well-being is often threatened by indoor plant pests. Let’s figure out how to identify the type of uninvited “visitors” and how to effectively and quickly get rid of them.

Be careful when using these products. Follow the instructions, thoroughly clean the area after use, put away food, keep the products out of reach of children and animals, and do not store them in a place that is easily accessible to children and animals.

All about pests and how to destroy them

Causes of plant infestation

It often happens that lush greenery growing on a windowsill begins to wither and die. Upon discovering a pest infestation, the distraught owner searches for the source and cannot understand where the insects came from.

• Plants were taken outside, to an open veranda or balcony during the warm season.
• Windows or vents were left open for a long time. Theoretically, parasites can enter the house even through a small crack.
• The flower was transplanted into fresh substrate. Even soil purchased at a store can be infected, and there is no guarantee of protection if it is taken from a forest or garden.
• An infected specimen was purchased. Unfortunately, infection in nurseries is not uncommon. They supply such products to stores.
• Mistakes were made in daily care. They weaken the living organism, reduce its resistance, which parasites will definitely take advantage of.

Thus, there are many ways to get infected. It is impossible to protect against all of them, so you need to be prepared to fight for your green pets.

Plant pests. Causes of plant infestation | Pexels

Mealybugs on indoor plants: home remedies and chemical products that will help get rid of the pest

7 indoor plant pests and how to combat them

You can only quickly get rid of pests if you know how to destroy them. So let’s take a look at the names and photos of indoor plant pests and find out how to combat them.

1. Scale insect

It looks like a brown or cream-colored growth on the stem. In fact, it is an insect hiding under a thick chitinous shell. Its size does not exceed 0.15 inches (4 mm). If no action is taken, the number of scale insects will quickly increase, and they will cover the stems, appear on the underside of the leaves, and even on the fruits.

The parasites attach themselves to the plant and suck out its nutrients. The plant turns yellow and gradually dries out.

The situation is exacerbated if the fungus settles in the micro-wounds left by the scale insects’ jaws. False scale insects feed similarly. They also parasitize houseplants. They differ only in the absence of a shell, so it is a little easier to destroy them. It does not matter which species has settled in the house; they are all fought in the same way.

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How to combat

• Collect pests by hand, thoroughly clean all shoots with a soft brush, even a toothbrush.
• Wash with a hot shower, but no hotter than 122°F (50°C).
• Thoroughly treat with a strong soap solution. Use laundry soap to prepare it.

The following chemical preparations are used:

• Bonide Systemic Houseplant Insect Control Granules is a systemic insecticide that comes in granules and is applied to the soil: the product enters the plant through the roots and destroys pests inside the plant as they feed. The instructions indicate that it controls a wide range of pests, including scale insects and other “listed insects.”
• Bonide Mite‑X Ready-to-Use Houseplant Insect Killer is a spray for indoor plants based on plant extracts (cottonseed, clove, garlic) that works on direct contact with insects. It is suitable for ornamental plants and indoor flowers, both indoors and outdoors.

⚠️ Important to know

• Systemic preparations (such as granules) are effective because the insecticide circulates inside the plant — suitable for scale insects, especially if they have a protective “shell.”
• Contact sprays (such as Mite-X) are helpful if pests are clearly visible, but adult scale insects often have dense protection — individuals isolated by their armor can resist.
• Even if a product is legally sold in the US, it may be banned, restricted, or require special permits in the EU/Germany.

2. Mealybug

It is also called a woolly aphid because the powdery coating on its body resembles fur. These grayish or cream-colored parasites are easily visible against a green background. They gather in small groups and secrete a cotton-like substance or honeydew. This sweet liquid attracts fungi, which pose an additional threat to the flower. The lice attach themselves to the shoots and suck sap from them.

The most dangerous type of mealybug is the root mealybug. It lives underground, so it is invisible. You can only see it by removing the soil from the pot. There you will find a “family” of parasites that look as if they have been dusted with flour. They are omnivorous, affect almost all types of indoor plants, and easily move from one plant to another. If they are found, the infected areas must be treated immediately.

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Control methods

• If root aphids are present, the soil will need to be replaced. The roots should be rinsed in hot water at approximately 122°F (50°C).
• Manual removal of parasites followed by thorough washing of the greens under a shower head.
• Treatment with soap solution. Prepare at a ratio of one teaspoon of grated laundry soap per liter of water.
• Wipe the affected areas with an alcohol solution. To avoid damage, test on a small area first. Not suitable for downy varieties.
• Treating indoor plants with chemical pesticides helps. The following are used against all types of worms:

• Bonide Mite‑X Ready-to-Use Houseplant Insect Killer — insecticide for decorative plants, protects against insects. USA product, ready to use.
• Ugaoo MealyMagic Plant Protection Spray — a milder, environmentally friendly spray; suitable for controlling mealybugs on indoor flowers.

In addition to these widely available products, the following active ingredients are legal and used in the US for plants: Imidacloprid, oils (paraffinic oil), Neem oil / Azadirachtin extracts, etc. — they are listed as suitable for controlling mealybugs on houseplants.

⚠️ Important caveats

• Even if a product is sold in the US, it is not necessarily permitted in the EU/Germany. Attempts to import it may result in bans.
• Many “systemic” insecticides (e.g., those based on imidacloprid) have restrictions: they can be toxic to bees, animals, etc.
• Product approval information is valid for the US — for Germany, you need to check separately (sometimes EU registration is required).

3. Spider mite

An extremely dangerous insect. These creatures are tiny, with the most extensive measuring no more than 0.04 inches (1 mm). This makes them difficult to see. Minor puncture marks on leaf blades and silvery webs entangling shoots, leaves, and flowers are what attract attention. However, by the time they become noticeable, the mites have already firmly established themselves on the indoor plants. These tiny invaders move around on pieces of web, quickly colonizing the territory they have captured.

Gradually, the bush becomes completely entangled in the web where the parasites live. They suck the sap out of it, causing it to wither and die. Often, in addition to the mite infestation, a fungal infection joins in, leaving the green pet with almost no chance of survival. Spider mites settle on any crops, but miniature roses, ficuses, lemons, and other citrus fruits are especially susceptible to them.

Unfortunately, it is tough to get rid of this dangerous enemy. Even a small part of the colony remaining in the soil will become active over time. Therefore, at the first signs of danger, immediate action should be taken to destroy them.

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How to combat

• Remove the leaves most affected by mites.
• Spray the bush with an infusion of Persian chamomile, borage, creeping thyme, pyrethrum, or basil. Tea tree oil dissolved in water works well.
• Dissolve Fairy in clean water and whip into a thick foam. Cover the soil in the pot with plastic and generously moisten the above-ground part of the flower with the foam. Leave for 30 minutes, then rinse off.

• Bonide Mite-X Houseplant Insect Killer — spray for indoor and greenhouse plants, acts on contact: kills mites, aphids, thrips.
• Grower’s Ally Spider Mite Control — natural spray with plant extracts (oils), suitable for indoor use, greenhouses, and hydroponics.
• SMC Spider Mite Control Spray is a spray based on natural extracts, designed for the gentle destruction of spider mites and safe for most plants.
• Spidermite Control 100 ml Organic Spray is another “gentle” option with plant-based ingredients, safe for use indoors, suitable for greenery, ornamental plants, and greenhouses.

👉 These products are good if you have indoor/greenhouse plants and need gentle control: they are less toxic, but may not be powerful enough for severe infestations — often requiring repeated treatment.

☢️ Stronger / “agricultural” miticides and insecticides for severe infestations

• Forbid 4F Ornamental Miticide is a powerful miticide designed to destroy mites, including resistant populations, seriously; it acts on eggs and adults.
• Fervid Miticide Insecticide is an agricultural/commercial insecticide + miticide that provides a strong effect and long-lasting protection.
• Spidermite-100 ml is a miticide concentrate designed to kill spider mites; it is often used for more serious infestations.
• Micro Mite Miticide is another powerful option designed to control mites on ornamental and agricultural plants.

👉 These products are more like “heavy artillery.” They have a noticeable effect even with severe infestations but require careful handling and often have stricter application requirements (e.g., protective equipment, treatment conditions, and plant compatibility).

ℹ️ Important nuances

• For example, the active ingredient Etoxazole is used in the US (in products such as TetraSan) as a miticide specifically against spider mites.
• However, its effectiveness and safety depend heavily on the stage of infestation, the type of plant, and the conditions of use.
• The fact that a product is approved in the US does not guarantee that it is legal or safe for use in Germany/the EU, especially in the case of potent agricultural products.

4. Thrips

These parasites are found almost everywhere. They can be found in fields, forest glades, gardens, and even in stores, where they live on berries and vegetables. Their bodies are small and elongated, and their color varies from pale yellow to charcoal black. They are no longer than 0.12 inches (3 mm). Thrips are very prolific, and adults can fly. Therefore, colonies proliferate and conquer new territories for habitation.

Thrips are omnivorous, but they prefer beautifully flowering plants: hibiscus, violets, geraniums, roses, etc. Delicate young leaves and shoots are particularly vulnerable to them. Varieties with dense leaves are less interesting to insects. A bush attacked by them is covered with small, yellowish punctures. Small black spots of excrement also become noticeable.

Thrips settle on green above-ground parts and in soil clods. This is important to know when starting to destroy a colony to treat all infected areas.

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Control measures

• Buds and flowers are removed, as this is where the most significant number of beetles accumulate.
• Dilute Zooshampoo against mites, which contains permethrin, in a small amount of water. Whip it into a thick foam. Apply it to the stems and leaves, leave for 35-40 minutes, then rinse off.

Insecticides work well against thrips:

• Bonide — Captain Jack’s DeadBug Brew. This is a Spinosad-based spray, often recommended for thrips, leaf miners, and other pests.
• Monterey — Monterey Garden Insect Spray (also Spinosad-based). It is claimed to be effective against thrips, leaf miners, caterpillars, and other insects.
• Oil or oil-soap solutions + natural substances — for example, oils (paraffin, horticultural oil), plant soap, natural oils (e.g., Neem oil), etc. These products are often recommended for use on leaves to control thrips.

ℹ️ Important to know

• Spinosad (e.g., in Captain Jack’s or Monterey) is considered one of the most effective agents against thrips on houseplants/garden plants.
• Contact agents (oils, soaps, sprays) work best when pests can be found on the leaves — both the top and bottom of the leaves must be thoroughly treated.
• If thrips are eating leaves from the inside (inside the tissue) or in hard-to-reach places, contact spray may not be very effective; in this case, Spinosad or systemic agents provide a more reliable effect.

5. Sciaridae

Also known as fungus gnats. Small black flies flying randomly around the room are a sign of dangerous neighbors. They are harmless to green pets, but they lay eggs that develop into worm-like larvae. The latter feed on the sap of indoor plants, sucking on their delicate roots.

Therefore, if gnats suddenly appear, you should immediately check whether sciarid flies have infested the soil. This is very easy to do. Remove a small layer of soil; the larvae are usually located at a shallow depth. Get rid of both the larvae and the adults; otherwise, they will lay new eggs, and the danger will reappear.

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How to combat

• The soil in the pot must be dried out. Excess moisture attracts fungus gnats.
• Organic waste such as potato peelings, eggshells, and tea leaves should not be used as fertilizer.

The following preparations are used to destroy the larvae:

• Traunem® Beneficial Nematodes — a biological method: beneficial nematodes that parasitize sciarid larvae in the soil. Especially useful if you want to minimize chemical use.
• AGREE WG Insecticide (Bacillus thuringiensis) — an insecticide based on the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (BTI), which destroys fungus gnat larvae. Effective when watered.
• COSTAR WG Insecticide (Bacillus thuringiensis) is a similar BTI insecticide for controlling midge larvae.
• Lepiback Insecticide is another insecticide often used in gardening that can be used to control soil pests.
• XENTARI WG – Organic Insecticide — a Bt-based organic insecticide suitable for controlling gnats, larvae, and other pests.
• Trabe Bacillus Thuringiensis 40 g is a basic Bt bioinsecticide that can be used in the soil to control stream pest larvae (although it is more commonly used against caterpillars and beetles).
• BioBit DF Biological Insecticide is another Bt insecticide designed to control pests, potentially applicable to fungus gnats as well.
• PFNPE Organic Insecticide (Bacillus thuringiensis) — an organic Bt product suitable for vegetables, ornamental plants, and houseplants, often used to control pest larvae, including mosquitoes/gnats.

ℹ️ Why these products are recommended (and how they work)

• The best remedy for fungus gnats is BTI-based products: bacteria that destroy larvae when they enter the soil.
• Biological methods, such as beneficial nematodes, can eliminate the need for strong chemicals.
• Controlling soil moisture, drainage, and a dry topsoil layer are essential preventative measures, as moist soil promotes the reproduction of fungus gnats.

6. Aphids

Garden parasites are pretty rare in homes. They are small, no more than 0.08 inches (2 mm) in size, and translucent. They form the basis of the colony. A small part of it consists of winged aphids, which colonize new areas. It is very easy to notice an invasion. The insects stick to shoots or leaves, pierce their skin, and suck out the sap. The puncture sites are visible as dark spots.

During their life cycle, aphids produce honeydew. This is a sweet liquid that sticks buds together and clogs stomata. The honeydew attracts ants, which feed on it. Aphids must be destroyed as soon as they are spotted. It is important to remember that pest larvae may be present underground.

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Ways to combat

• The insects do not stay in one place, so they are gently washed away under a shower. It is advisable to use a strong jet of water to improve washing effectiveness.
• Spray the bush with citrus infusion. Add a few drops of essential oil or four tablespoons of zest to 0.26 gallons (1 liter) of water.
• Treat with a soap solution. Add a teaspoon of grated laundry soap to 0.26 gallons (1 liter) of water.

To repel aphids, place a geranium with a spicy scent next to the infected but treated plant.

The following chemical solutions are used:

• Bonide Systemic Houseplant Insect Control Granules — systemic insecticide: granules are applied to the soil, then the product enters the plant’s vascular system through the roots; protects against aphids, whiteflies, scale insects, and other pests for up to 6-8 weeks.
• Bonide Mite-X Ready-to-Use Houseplant Insect Killer — contact spray based on plant extracts (cottonseed, clove, garlic). Suitable for indoor and ornamental plants, kills aphids, spider mites, and thrips when sprayed directly.

ℹ️ Important to consider

• Systemic preparations (granules) are convenient if pests feed on plant sap — protection “from the inside.”
• Sprays (such as Mite-X) are adequate for visible infestations when pests are on the leaves (aphids, spider mites, etc.).
• Even if a product is sold and approved in the US, this does not mean that it is automatically approved in the EU or Germany. If you want to import it, you need to check European and German regulations (import, approval, and admissibility of use).

7. Whitefly

A cream-colored moth, its wings and body are covered with a powdery white coating. The photo shows that it looks very similar to a moth, only slightly smaller. The length of the individual does not exceed 0.12 inches (3 mm). Both larvae and adults are dangerous to indoor plants. They suck out the sap, leaving behind honeydew, a sticky substance.

This clogs the stomata, preventing respiration and attracting ants and fungus. Infection with whiteflies leads to rapid plant death. The moths are omnivorous, but they especially love geraniums, fuchsias, dracaenas, and hibiscus. They are very resilient, and a single spray of insecticide does not always help. It has to be done twice or even more. It is advisable to use different preparations to change the active ingredient.

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Effective control methods

• Washing with soap solution. Use household or liquid green soap. Even a regular shower will kill some moths.
• Fumigator with mosquito repellent plate. Effectively kills adult moths.
• Glue traps and sticky paper strips that catch flies. Help to destroy some of the moths.
• To repel whiteflies, sprinkle the soil in the pot generously with ash.

Insecticides are used for spraying:

• Whitefly Control Solution — a spray explicitly designed for whiteflies; suitable for indoor plants, vegetables, and flowers.
• Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Concentrate — a concentrate for dilution; more often used as an “organic” option, contains natural ingredients, and is suitable for wilting flowers and vegetable plants.
• Bonide Systemic House Plant Insect Control is a systemic insecticide: it works through the roots/sap of plants, which can be effective if whiteflies have already penetrated deeply.
• BugClear Plant Shield Spray is a convenient, ready-to-use spray that is easy to apply quickly.
• BUG BOTANIST Flying Bug Remedy — a mild, “plant-based” spray; may be a good choice if you want something safer.
• Houseplant & Garden Insect Remedy — a universal spray for garden and house plants, claimed to be effective against whiteflies, aphids, and other sucking pests.
• Maven Elicitex Mist Spray is a mist spray that may be convenient for young plants or delicate leaves.
• Baby Bio Houseplant Bug Killer Ultra is an option for ornamental plants: a simple remedy if you need “everyday” protection.

ℹ️ Important points and recommendations

• For whiteflies, sprays based on horticultural oil, organic oils (e.g., neem oil), or insecticidal soap are often recommended — they are considered relatively safe and effective with regular treatments.
• Systemic insecticides (e.g., with the active ingredient Imidacloprid) are sometimes used against whiteflies — through watering or as a “drench.”
• When spraying, it is essential to cover the entire surface of the leaves, including the underside — this is where whitefly larvae and eggs often hide.

We have listed the names of pests that live on indoor plants and shown their photos. Even the most inexperienced gardeners will be able to recognize the danger and eliminate it quickly and effectively.

❓ Questions and answers

How do I know if my houseplant is infested?

• Watch for signs like yellowing or curling leaves, sticky residue (sometimes called “honeydew”), fine webbing, white fluffs, or small insects on leaves and stems.
• Also check the soil: some pests — especially fungus gnats — emerge from moist soil as tiny flies.

What should I do first when I spot an infestation?

• Immediately isolate the affected plant so pests don’t spread to your other plants.
• Gently wash or wipe the plant — leaves, stems, and pot — with soapy water or a mild insecticidal soap. For visible pests like mealybugs or scale, using a cotton swab dipped in diluted rubbing alcohol can help.

How can I prevent pests from coming back?

• Quarantine any new plant for 2–4 weeks before adding it to your collection.
• Avoid overwatering — many pests love moist soil. Make sure pots have good drainage and let the top layer of soil dry before watering again.
• Keep the plant area clean: wipe dust off leaves, and clean pots & trays regularly. Good airflow also helps deter pests.

Are there natural ways to treat or repel pests without harsh chemicals?

• Yes. Insecticidal soaps, neem oil, or other natural oils are often effective against soft-bodied pests such as aphids, thrips, and spider mites.
• For flying pests like fungus gnats, letting the soil dry out between waterings, using sticky traps, or improving soil drainage can break their life cycle.

When is a pest infestation too severe, and is it better to discard the plant?

• If pests have infested the soil (e.g., root ­mealybugs or gnats), or if the plant shows severe damage (lots of dead leaves, stunted growth, or mold), sometimes even repotting and repeated treatment won’t be enough.
• In such cases, removing the plant — preferably composting or discarding it — may be the safest choice to protect your other plants.

Sofia Lorenson: An expert in floriculture and floristry with 10 years of experience. I will help you create the garden of your dreams, which will bloom from spring to fall.

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