How to get rid of spider mites on indoor plants once and for all

How to get rid of spider mites on indoor plants once and for all
How to get rid of spider mites on indoor plants once and for all | ShutterStock

Spider mite. Have your houseplants suddenly started to look worse, and have you noticed cobwebs on them? Most likely, it’s spider mites — and that’s what we’ll be fighting in this article.

Indoor flowers sometimes require a lot of care, but they can beautifully decorate the interior and add a touch of nature. That’s why it’s especially upsetting when your beloved green pets are struck by disease. Today, we will talk about spider mites, one of the most common pests. How to detect the parasite, which types are the most dangerous, how to get rid of spider mites on indoor plants, and how to prevent their appearance — in our article.

Be careful when using these products. Follow the instructions, thoroughly clean the area after use, put away food, keep the products out of reach of children and animals, and do not store them in a place that is easily accessible to children and animals.

All about combating spider mites

What the pest looks like

It is difficult to see the mite with the naked eye — it is tiny, about a millimeter in size. Only adults, the most prominent individuals, can reach 0.2 inches (5 mm) in length. The typical color of these insects is green, although red or orange colors can also be found. To the human eye, a population of these mites appears as a multitude of specks on leaves (usually on their undersides) or on the soil surface. The photo below shows a spider mite on a houseplant under a microscope.

 

What the pest looks like

What the pest looks like | ShutterStock

 

Types of spider mites

  • Common. The most widespread species, which poses the greatest danger. These insects are tricky to spot—they are light and translucent. Hiding on the underside of leaves, these pests will quickly multiply, and when there are many of them, they will not only cover the entire flower with cobwebs, but also spread to neighboring flowers. In other words, another danger is that these spiders can easily spread from one flower to another if they are nearby.
  • Red. This bright red pest loves lemon trees, roses, orchids, azaleas, and cacti. It is most active in autumn and spring, when it is neither too hot nor too cold. The red species of insects prefers dry air, so if your home has low humidity, this can contribute to its spread.
  • Atlantic. Various palms, citrus trees, and some other unusual plants that require high humidity are susceptible to the Atlantic species of this pest. Like these plants, it loves high humidity, so it reproduces especially quickly in such conditions. Frequent or excessive watering is a risk factor.
  • False. These are the smallest representatives of the species. Adults are pale red, but because they are no larger than 0.0098 inches (0.25 mm), you are unlikely to see them. False spider mites do not leave a web behind – another difference between them. Therefore, many people notice the disease when the leaves begin to dry out and fall off. Citrus fruits, orchids, and passionflowers are most susceptible to this parasite.
  • Cyclamen. These pests are also small and love humid air. However, they differ in that they hide in plant buds, unopened buds, and other secluded places. Leaves affected by cyclamen mites behave slightly differently – they shrivel and curl. It usually affects various flowers: violets, chrysanthemums, begonias, and others.
  • Broad. This species also loves flowers – not only garden flowers, but also indoor ones. The female lays eggs directly into the soil near their stems, which turn into larvae within 2-3 days. Another difference is the presence of a toxic substance in their saliva, which gets on the leaves. As a result, they develop a pale brown coating and eventually shrivel.

 

Types of spider mites

Types of spider mites | ShutterStock

 

Reasons for the appearance of spider mites on indoor flowers

There can be several ways of infection.

  • With a new plant from the store. This is a relatively common source of parasites, so it is best to place a newly purchased seedling in a separate container for a 2-week quarantine. During this period, monitor its condition. If no particular symptoms appear, you can add it to your home greenhouse.
  • From the street. Insects are often found by residents of lower floors where trees grow near the windows. This is an ideal way for pests to expand their territory at the expense of someone’s houseplants. Plants growing on the balcony are at even greater risk. You can’t do anything about the trees nearby, so inspect your pots more often and more carefully.
  • From eggs laid long ago by females. Wondering where the infestation came from, if there were no new flowers, and the windows were closed in winter? It’s simple — female spider mites lay their eggs in the soil, and they seem to hibernate when conditions are unfavorable. They do not manifest themselves in any way and can remain in this state for up to 5 years! But as soon as conditions improve, they wake up and start attacking the plant. As we wrote above, for some species, warmth and dryness are favorable, while for others, warmth and moisture are.

 

Reasons for the appearance of spider mites on indoor flowers

Reasons for the appearance of spider mites on indoor flowers | ShutterStock

 

Signs of infestation

You might think that cobwebs on indoor plants are the most obvious indicator of a parasite infestation. In fact, this is not the case: cobwebs are a sign that the plant is about to die. When an insect secretes, the secretion solidifies into thin threads. Only when a large number of individuals have multiplied on the flower and they secrete many times more secretion can the web itself be seen. It entangles parts of the plant or, in the most advanced cases, the entire plant.

Therefore, you need to be much more attentive to the plant. Pale yellow or almost white spots form on the leaves — these are the places where pests bite with their small jaws to drink cell sap. If you notice several such spots, start treatment.

Sudden leaf drying, loss of elasticity, and loss of healthy green color are also reasons to examine the plant for spider mite eggs carefully.

To confirm the presence of insects, examine the underside of the leaves — as we have already noted, there will be small crumbs stuck to them. Among them are both adults and larvae.

 

Signs of infestation

Signs of infestation | ShutterStock

 

How to combat spider mites on indoor plants

Now you know your enemy and have been warned about potential dangers. It’s time to move on to the main thing — fighting it.

Chemicals

Several products can help you deal with this scourge. They all have varying degrees of toxicity and effectiveness. Let’s take a look at the most popular chemical remedies for spider mites on indoor plants.

  • Bonide Mite‑X Houseplant Spray Ready-to-Use — a ready-to-use spray based on plant extracts. Effective against mites, aphids, thrips, and other small pests. Suitable for houseplants and ornamental crops.
  • BioAdvanced 3-in-1 Insect Killer, Disease and Mite Control is a combined 3-in-1 product advertised as an insecticide + fungicide + miticide. Suitable for mixed problems (not only mites, but also plant diseases).
  • Forbid 4F Ornamental Miticide Insecticide is a professional product (miticide) often used to control mite populations on ornamental and garden plants. It is usually applied only as needed, according to the instructions.
  • Forbid 4F Miticide 8 oz – Spiromesifen Insecticide is a miticide option based on an active ingredient that targets mites. It is used for more serious infestations.
  • Grower’s Ally Spider Mite Control is a spray/concentrate with natural ingredients (such as essential oils), a relatively gentle option for houseplants/garden plants. Recommended if you want to minimize chemical exposure.
  • Natural Spider Mite Control Spray is another “mild” option: a natural formula, often used for prevention or for mild infestations.
  • Cyzmic CS Insecticide is a more powerful product designed for severe infestations. It can be more toxic, so caution and strict adherence to the instructions for use are required.
  • Zoecon Mavrik Aquaflow is a professional insecticide/miticide: often used in gardening and for severe mite outbreaks. Suitable for outdoor plants and greenhouses.

ℹ️ General information on use

  • Many mites, including spider mites, do not respond well to conventional “regular” insecticides — it is essential to choose specifically a miticide (or a product labeled “for mites”).
  • Effectiveness largely depends on the thoroughness of treatment: it is essential to cover the upper and lower sides of the leaves and to repeat the therapy often, as mites reproduce quickly.
  • When using strong products, be sure to read the instructions, follow the dosage, and observe safety precautions (ventilation, skin, and respiratory protection).

 

How to combat spider mites on indoor plants

How to combat spider mites on indoor plants | ShutterStock

 

Folk remedies

If you don’t want to resort to harsh chemicals or have children and pets at home, you can fight flower pests using home remedies. Folk remedies are best used if you have already spotted the mites, but they have not had time to spread widely.

Soap solution

Foam whipped from laundry or tar soap with water works well, but only affects adult specimens. If eggs have been laid in the soil, additional treatment will be required to destroy them.

Whip up a thick soapy foam and apply it to the leaves — a film will form on their surface, preventing the mites from breathing and feeding. Leave the solution on for 3-5 hours. Then thoroughly wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to remove the foam, or rinse the plant under a gentle shower. After the procedure, it is essential to maintain a very humid microclimate around the plant — cover the seedling with plastic wrap.

Alcohol

Alcohol solution has proven effective, but it can only be used on dense leaf plates. For example, roses and petunias require a different method, but ficus and dieffenbachia can be safely treated with alcohol. Prepare a solution of 10 parts water and 1 part alcohol. Moisten a cotton pad in it and thoroughly wipe each leaf. The remedy will not help if the pest has already laid eggs.

Garlic tincture

Garlic is a folk remedy that helps in many cases, including against spider mites. To combat them, you need to prepare a tincture for 5 days by mixing one grated head of garlic and 0.8 gallons (3 liters) of water. Then strain the mixture and use it to spray the plants.

Onion tincture

Onions are almost as effective as garlic. To combat flower parasites, soak 0.22-0.33 pounds (100-150 g) of onion skins in 1.3 gallons (5 liters) of water and let it steep for several days. Then strain and use to treat flowers — you can spray them and wipe the leaves.

 

Folk remedies

Folk remedies | Pexels

 

Prevention

It is not always possible to save plants from spider mites, especially if they are already at an advanced stage of development. Here are some preventive tips.

  • Regularly inspect plants for unusual symptoms.
  • Place newly purchased seedlings in quarantine.
  • Do not transplant them into old, used soil.
  • Monitor the temperature and humidity, especially during the heating season. Some mites thrive in high humidity, but most spread most actively in warm, dry conditions.
  • Do not neglect spraying, which will make life very difficult for the mites.
  • Some people disinfect purchased soil before use — not everyone wants to bother with this, but sometimes it is better to spend time on it than to get rid of insects later painstakingly. You can disinfect the soil by freezing or calcining it.

 

❓ Questions and answers

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Yes — a strong spray of water can dislodge many mites, and a mild soap solution (e.g., diluted dish soap) can suffocate them. For best results, once you treat the plant, rinse it thoroughly with soap and repeat treatments every 5–7 days until mites are gone.

They can be. For example, a diluted alcohol solution or a spray containing natural oils (such as neem or essential oils) can kill or repel mites. Always test on a small leaf first — some plants are sensitive, and repeated applications may be needed.

Maintain good plant hygiene: regularly wipe leaves, keep humidity moderate (mites hate damp air), isolate any new plants for a while, and inspect plants often — especially if the air is dry.

It depends. If you catch the infestation early enough, many plants can recover with repeated treatment. But if the mites have formed thick webs and heavily damaged leaves, recovery may take time — you may need to prune damaged foliage, and recovery won’t be immediate.

 

Sofia Lorenson: An expert in floriculture and floristry with 10 years of experience. I will help you create the garden of your dreams, which will bloom from spring to fall.

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Sophia Laurenson

Sofia Lorenson is our expert on floriculture, floristry, and creating gardens that bloom continuously. Sofia's passion for flowers began in her grandmother's garden in North Carolina, where she first learned the names of all the perennials and how to arrange bouquets. She studied ornamental horticulture and floristry at the New York Botanical Garden. For over 10 years, Sofia ran her own flower boutique in Charleston, specializing in wedding floristry and “cut gardens.” Her deep knowledge of color combinations, plant seasonality, and the creation of stunning flowerbed arrangements has helped hundreds of clients transform their gardens into true works of art. Sofia now devotes herself to lecturing and creating gardens that attract butterflies and bees. She is an active member of the American Gardens community and promotes the ideas of sustainable floriculture. On her plot in Virginia, she experiments with new varieties of peonies and dahlias, adores fragrant roses, and creates flower borders that delight the eye from early spring to late autumn. In her articles for GardenWiseHub, Sofia not only gives practical care tips but also inspires readers to create beautiful and harmonious floral arrangements in their gardens and homes.

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