How to get rid of red ants in the garden and in the house

We explain which folk remedies can help fight red ants and which chemical preparations can be used.

Living with insects can be highly unpleasant, especially if your “neighbors” spoil food, furniture, and belongings, carry dangerous infections, and destroy vegetable gardens and garden plants. Let’s figure out how to get rid of red ants in your home and yard.

Be careful when using these products. Follow the instructions, wash everything thoroughly after use, put away food, keep the products out of reach of children and animals, and do not store them in a place that is easily accessible to children and animals.

All about methods for combating red ants

Species characteristics of pests

There are thousands of species of ants in nature. Only a few dozen of these species can be found in homes and gardens. When it comes to red pests, homeowners are most often bothered by three species: forest ants, pharaoh ants, and myrmica ants. The first are quite rare guests on plots, more often living in the forest. They reveal their presence with tall anthills, which they prefer to build near trees.

The forest variety does not harm humans. On the contrary, they destroy large numbers of pests and improve soil structure. However, they can spread weed seeds and breed aphids, whose sweet secretions they are very fond of. Myrmica prefers to settle under stones, in plant roots, and in crevices. It is a predatory species that feeds on garden pests and breeds aphids. Its bite is excruciating.

The most unpleasant neighbor is the pharaoh ant. These small reddish-brown ants prefer to settle in heated buildings. They inhabit damp, dark, warm places. They live in houses, and the entire structure becomes their large “anthill.” Each one has several dozen or even hundreds of queens, which are hidden in the most unexpected places. They are always active and do not hibernate. It isn’t easy to get rid of this species.

All about methods for combating red ants | Pixabay

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Folk remedies for red ants

Before you start fighting the “invaders,” it’s a good idea to identify their species. This will help you understand how dangerous they are. The most harmless are forest ants and myrmica ants. They live only outdoors and do not settle in houses. It is pretty easy to get rid of them. Pharaoh ants are much more difficult. Here, you will need to make an effort to destroy all the queens in the colony; otherwise, it will revive again and again. We have compiled the most effective ways to get rid of red ants in the garden, on the plot, and at home.

For the garden

Few people are happy to find an anthill in their garden. There is no need to panic. This is the home of a forest species that brings some benefits to the garden plot. If you need to get rid of it, it is easy to do so. The anthill is moved to the forest. To do this, use thick plastic bags to collect the above-ground part of the structure. Do this with a shovel, trying to do everything quickly.

The filled bags are tightly sealed with tape so that the insects cannot escape. The earthen base from under the anthill is placed in a separate bag. It is removed with a shovel, or slightly more. It cannot be left behind, as there are many underground passages where the ants live. A hole is dug in the forest near a tree, into which the soil from the base is placed, and everything else is poured on top. Nothing else needs to be done; the insects will form the structure they need themselves.

It is much more difficult with underground anthills, such as those built by myrmica. It is only possible to completely get rid of new structures that do not yet have long, branched passages. They are dug up, placed in a bucket, taken away from your territory, and dumped there. It is impossible to remove old ant colonies with many passages without damaging the plantings. Therefore, they are partially removed whenever possible. Preventive measures are a must. Large stones, stumps, rotting trees—anything where pests like to settle—are removed.

Folk remedies for red ants | Pixabay

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It is believed that insects dislike strong smells. Therefore, it is recommended to spread chopped parsley, tomato tops, anise and wormwood leaves, and garlic in places where they gather. Sawdust mixed with cinnamon or garlic paste also helps. Some tips for getting rid of red ants in the garden suggest pouring carbolic acid or kerosene onto anthills and the surrounding area. This should not be done. These are toxic substances that are dangerous to the soil and living organisms.

How to keep insects off trees

To keep insects off trees, where they will breed aphids, the following methods are used.

• Foil. The trunk is wrapped with a strip of foam rubber to prevent bark damage. A strip of foil is wound over it. Pests will not be able to overcome the slippery barrier.
• Sticky tape. It is used against flies, but it also works against ants. The tape is placed on a strip of foam rubber wrapped around the trunk. It is replaced with a new one from time to time.
• Hemp oil. It is smeared on the bases of trees and shrubs. The smell repels ants.

How to keep insects off trees | Pixabay

For the garden

When ant nests are found, they are treated in the same way as described above. In the garden, branched underground structures are most common. It is almost impossible to remove them. But it is necessary to prevent them from developing. Mix dried oregano and sulfur in a 1:2 ratio. Dig up the place where the insects have settled, fill it with the mixture, and mix it with the soil. Stove soot helps. Sprinkle it around the ant structures and mix it with the soil.

Ash works well. It is sprinkled on areas where pests gather, on paths, and between rows. Ash not only repels ants, but also fertilizes the soil. Harmful advice on how to get rid of red ants in the garden includes recommendations to use kerosene, carbolic acid (even diluted), and salt. The latter penetrates deeply into the soil, accumulates there, and kills plants.

Aromatic herbs such as anise, parsley, and wormwood are used to repel insects. Sometimes smoked herring heads are buried in the garden beds. However, the smell may repel more than just ants. To combat red ants in the garden, many people use a “sweet sponge.” A regular foam sponge is moistened with sugar syrup and placed where the parasites have been spotted. After a while, the sponge is lifted and dipped in boiling water. It is rinsed, and the procedure is repeated.

Folk remedies for red ants | Pixabay

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For the home

If a colony has settled in your home, repellents and baits containing boric acid will help in the early stages, while the colony is still small. First, you need to deprive the “invaders” of their food source. Remove any food that is freely accessible and seal any leftovers on the table. Do not leave unwashed dishes overnight, and take out the trash regularly. All of these are excellent sources of food for insects.

Could you try to find as many nests as possible? They can be found in secluded corners of the bathroom, near the kitchen trash can, under stacks of laundry in the closet, and so on. When you see the nest’s inhabitants, destroy them, wash everything with soapy water, and set up homemade repellents. Soak cotton wool or rags in lavender, lemon, clove, or mint essential oil. You can use dry wormwood, mint, or parsley.

Poisoned baits based on boric acid will help. This agent paralyzes insects’ nervous systems, leading to their death. However, it is also dangerous for other living organisms, so use it with caution. Children or pets should not accidentally eat the bait.

Here are two proven recipes.

Bait

• Refined sugar is soaked in acid and laid out in an open area.
• For 17 fl oz (half a liter) of any jam, take 0.18 oz (5 g) of boric acid and 0.7 oz (20 g) of yeast. Mix, divide into small containers, and place where ants appear.

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Chemical preparations

If the population is large, it is unlikely that folk remedies will be effective. In this case, toxic chemicals must be used.

Here is a list of the leading manufacturers and popular brands of chemical ant control products sold in the US.

The products are divided by type of action and form of release for convenience.

1. Liquid ant baits

How they work: They contain a slow-acting poison that is attractive to ants. Worker ants carry the poison back to the colony and feed it to the larvae and the queen, leading to the colony’s destruction within a few days.

• Terro (No. 1 brand in the US)
  • Terro Liquid Ant Baits: Classic liquid baits based on borax. The most recognizable product.
  • Terro T300 Liquid Ant Killer: Liquid in a bottle for refilling reusable stations.
  • Terro Outdoor Liquid Ant Baits: Weather-resistant stations for outdoor use.
• Raid
  • Raid Double Control Ant Baits: Contains two compartments with different types of bait for fast and delayed effects.
• Combat
  • Combat Ant Killing Gel: Gel in a syringe for spot application in hard-to-reach places.

2. Granular Baits

How it works: Similar to liquid baits, but in granule form. Often used to treat large outdoor areas.

• AMDRO (A very popular brand for outdoor use)
  • AMDRO Kills Ants Ant Bait Granules: Granules that attract and kill ants (including fire ants) outdoors. Remain effective for up to 3 months.
  • AMDRO Ant Block: Granular bait in a convenient jar for spot application.
• Spectracide
  • Spectracide Bug Stop Home Barrier Granules: Granules for creating a barrier around the house.
• Ortho
  • Ortho Fire Ant Killer Broadcast Granules: Specialized for fire ants, but also effective against other species.

3. Insecticide Sprays

Principle of action: Instant-acting contact or intestinal poison. Kills ants on direct contact. Suitable for quickly destroying visible individuals, but does not affect the colony.

• Raid
  • Raid Ant & Roach Killer: Classic aerosol for instant destruction.
  • Raid Multi Bug Spray: Universal spray for various insects.
• Ortho
  • Ortho Home Defense Insect Killer: Concentrated spray for creating a protective barrier inside and outside the home. A very popular preventive measure.
• Spectracide
  • Spectracide Malathion Insect Spray: A more powerful insecticide for treating gardens and perimeters.
• Bayer
  • Bayer Advanced Home Pest Control Spray: Spray with long-lasting residual effect.

4. Powders and Dusts

How it works: Creates a barrier or is applied to nests. Ants get covered in the powder and spread the poison throughout the colony.

• Terro
  • Terro Ant Dust: A powder based on diatomaceous earth and insecticides for treating crevices and ant nests.
• Delta Dust (Professional grade)
  • Delta Dust Professional Pest Control Insecticide Dust: One of the most effective and long-lasting dusts based on deltamethrin. Used by many pest control professionals.
• CimeXa (Alternative)
  • CimeXa Insecticide Dust: A silicon dioxide-based powder that physically kills insects by dehydrating them. It is not a “chemical” poison in the traditional sense, but it is very effective.

5. Professional Concentrates

For severe infestations, often requiring a sprayer.

• Syngenta
  • Advion Insect Granule: Pro-level granular bait.
  • Talstar P Professional Insecticide: Universal concentrate for creating a barrier (based on bifenthrin). Very popular with professionals.
• BASF
  • Termidor SC (Fipronil): A powerful non-repellent insecticide used by professionals. Effective on the principle of “poison transfer” from one individual to another.

Key active ingredients to look out for:

• Hydramethylnon: Slow-acting, for baits (Combat, Maxforce).
• Fipronil: Fast-acting and effective (Frontline, Termidor, some baits).
• Bifenthrin: For barrier sprays and perimeter treatment (Talstar, Ortho Home Defense).
• Permethrin: Broad-spectrum contact insecticide.
• Borax / Sodium Tetraborate: Classic, effective, slow-acting poison for baits (Terro).
• Indoxacarb: A modern insecticide found in some baits (Advion).

When using any chemical, always follow the instructions on the packaging carefully, especially regarding safety precautions, indoor/outdoor use, and use around children and pets.

According to reviews, combination products are considered the best choice for home use. They contain both toxic substances, which enhance each other’s effects. This makes it possible to eliminate “invaders” even in the most advanced cases.

Chemical preparations | Pixabay

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It is easiest to get rid of pests at the initial stage, when their numbers are small. Later on, it will be much more challenging to do so. The best thing to do is to prevent them from getting started in the first place by taking preventive measures: planting plants with a repellent odor, keeping engineering communications and garbage storage areas in good working order and clean. Deprived of food and water, insects will find other places that are attractive to them.

❓ Questions and answers

What attracts red ants to my yard or home?

Red ants are usually drawn to food sources like sugary spills, pet food, and plant nectar. They also seek moisture, warm soil, and protected spots for nesting. Eliminating these attractants is one of the most effective prevention steps.

Are commercial ant baits safe to use around pets and children?

Most ant baits sold in the U.S. are considered safe when used as directed on the label, but they should still be kept out of reach of pets and kids. Enclosed bait stations are a safer option because the poison is sealed inside.

How long does it take for ant baits to work?

Typically, 24–72 hours. Worker ants carry the bait back to the colony, where it spreads to the queen and other ants. Complete elimination may take up to a week, depending on colony size.

Can red ants cause damage to my plants or garden?

Yes. While they don’t usually eat plants, red ants can protect aphids for their honeydew, leading to infestations that harm your garden. Their nests can also disturb plant roots and soil structure.

What’s the best long-term way to prevent red ants from returning?

Seal entry points, remove food sources, fix moisture problems, keep your yard clean, and use perimeter treatments if necessary. Regular monitoring and prompt treatment of new mounds help prevent reinfestation.

Hi, I’m Ben Carter!

I’m a certified organic vegetable specialist with over 12 years of experience. I grew up on a farm in Iowa and have helped hundreds of gardeners grow bountiful harvests without unnecessary chemicals. On this site, I share my proven methods. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments!

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